Layover Guides

When you are seeking that spark of life, you chase it. Carnaval in Salvador with 2.5 million people, a desert that fills with water every year, and six days on the Rio Negro with pink dolphins and one sloth with somewhere to be.

A last-minute trip to the German border for Sort Sol, the marshland murmuration that only does the famous part when something tries to eat it. Plus the falcon that never showed, and the correct way to cross the Fyn bridge.

The honeymoon that became a four-year cancellation saga, and then the coldest, strangest, most beautiful race I have ever run. Four attempts, one pandemic, and an apartment marathon I recommend to nobody.

Wider than your sense of scale, moving with an ease that is almost funny once the initial shock wears off. Then the sea lions, who chose chaos.

Some people do vision boards. We did blisters. An accelerated W Trek over Christmas, a rainbow nobody deserved, and a New Year in the golden light at Estancia Bonanza.

Montenegro's roads are about to get a quiet word from Nepal, Austria and Croatia. Narrow, one-way as a suggestion, with semi-trucks reversing down mountains.

Denmark had just thrown the coldest winter in 16 years at us, the map had a gap, and we had a few days. Then we landed in a country where everyone was wearing white except us.

Copenhagen to Kosovo and back in an EV, with one Samoyed operating in an advisory capacity and a back seat that ended up looking like a small artisan jam factory in transit.

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Which small human, in which country, decided you were their best human even though you are a dog? Reply with the country and the keychain.

What's your dog's airport pickup tell? Tail at half mast? Side-eye? Full silent treatment? Reply.

What border crossing have you done with a dog, and what did they ask for that nobody warned you about?

What's the most polite border crossing you've done with a dog? Reply with the customs officer's first name.