Crossed across the pond, detoured through LA, and in a move that feels aggressively on-brand, went from Latin America to Europe and straight back to Mexico. Slightly glamorous chaos. Enter: La Paz.
Mornings were for marina runs and early starts. The rest unfolded exactly as it should. Tacos when it mattered. I was reunited with my sisters for the first time in ages. The jazzy one. The tall one. And my dad and Kimie, fully game for adventure, early departures, and saying yes to whatever came next.
Day one came with roadside wild horses, setting the tone just casually.
The ocean reminded us who is actually in charge
WHALE SHARKS. Huge. Polka-dotted. Gentle giants. Silently drifting past, wider than your sense of scale, moving with an ease that is almost funny once the initial holy sh*t wears off. Majestic. Calm.
Meanwhile, I am absolutely more like a sea lion when it comes to aquatic life.
Sea lions, true to form, chose chaos. One bold little menace grabbed scuba fins and played tug-of-war with our instructor's safety rope. No fear. Full confidence.
Many of our tours were led by marine biology students and researchers, which made the experience even better. Not just beautiful, but informed. Protected waters, real conservation, and people who genuinely care for this underwater world. If you want to do the same, look for operators who prioritize responsible practices: choose tours that follow local regulations, allow only small groups, and have guides who are knowledgeable about conservation. Bonus points if the company works with scientists or supports habitat protection. Asking questions about their environmental policies can help you make sure your visit is actually helping, not harming, the place you're there to enjoy.
Between it all: sea lion swims, pelicans everywhere, beachside ceviche, top-shelf margaritas, garden-fresh Brussels sprouts that had no business being that good, and a very necessary Costco run because it is bulking season.
Road trips, sunrise hikes, and Hotel California
Jess and I road-tripped all o'er. One drive up a hill through a construction zone to our rental. Another trip to Cabo for pastries and landscaping views worthy of a moment of their own.
A sunrise hike with Dad and Kimie came with sweeping views of Playa Balandra, a moonrise glistening across the sea, and street puppies with suspiciously wholesome attitudes. Todos Santos wrapped it up with quiet beachside nights, stars overhead, and a stop at Hotel California because obviously.
On the return LA stopover, I landed exactly where I needed to. Cafe Gratitude with Jo and Scott, plus Jenn, reading affirmations like "I am goofy," "I am lovely," and "I am a runner." And, honestly, yes to all three.
And because I live abroad and travel like an immigrant on a mission, there was also the LA unboxing ritual. Cold meds. So many cold meds.
I miss my family deeply, especially around the holidays. But this kind of time together, this kind of choosing adventure and connection? I would say yes again and again.
Can you swim with whale sharks in La Paz?
Yes, in protected waters. Most tours are led by marine biology students and researchers. That is what made it worth doing for me.
What else is worth the drive?
Playa Balandra at sunrise. Todos Santos for quiet beachside nights. Cabo for pastries. Priorities, sorted.
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